Our family comes from a long generation of cooks on the Italian side. My great uncle Garibaldi Lapolla claims that our ancestors had a roadside inn in Southern Italy dating back to the days of Caesar and Cleopatra, and even suggests that we hosted these two historical icons (Italian Cooking for the American Kitchen). https://books.google.com/books/about/Italian_Cooking_for_the_American_Kitchen.html?id=_1wiMwEACAAJ
That’s why it surprises me that we have celebrated a dish for generations that was improperly named. The linguini in clam sauce featured here has been affectionately referred to as aiolia for decades. It wasn’t until a few years ago that my sister in law, Jessica, pointed out that aoli is a sauce made of garlic and olive oil, often times likened to mayonnaise, and has nothing to do with clams!
We were surprised, but nonetheless, we still refer to this tasty meal respectfully as “aiolia.”
I remember fondly the aiolia feasts in the Lapolla family that have been the center of many wonderful family reunions. Mind you, all of the siblings know how to cook this misnomer of a meal, but it was always juicier, and more special when my father, Grampa Joe, did it.
Shinier, tastier noodles swam in a pool of garlicy flavored olive oil with caramelized onions, savory clams, plump capers, green parsley, and just the right amount of anchovies.
I can still see my father slurping up his slippery pasta in an exuberant gluttony known only to him.
Captain Joe ran his kitchen like a military boot camp and you had better move quickly as he barked out orders.
“Rachel!!! Slice the onions.”
“Hannah!!! More garlic, and when you think you have enough garlic, slice more and then more.”
“Brianna!!! Stir the pasts and don’t overcook those noodles! You’ll ruin the whole d**** thing”
“Ana, hold steady on chopping the parsley.”
“Jamey, Nick and Joey — Out of the kitchen!!! Cooking’s women’s work.”
He wouldn’t actually say this last part and I don’t really think that he truly believed it but I think that he did prefer female company.
Jenny and Maria served time as the first generation cooks and would gracefully stand back and enjoy a glass or 2 of wine while the younger cousins slaved away in the kitchen.
The younger John and Joanie would enjoy the era of muffins and strawberry shortcake as recipients and as hands in the kitchen.
Love it or not, all of us have inherited this tasty meal and the wonderful memories that accompany it.
INGREDIENTS
1 1/2 lbs of Barilla pasta
4 cans of clams
1 can of anchovies
6-8 cloves of garlic
3 large onions
1 jar of capers
1 bunch of parsley
1 bunch of cilantro
1/2 cup of wine (optional)
1/2 cup of pasta water (optional)
olive oil
garlic salt
pepper
HOW TO MAKE LAPOLLA LINGUINI IN CLAM SAUCE
1.Chop onions, julienned
2. Chop garlic, not too small
3. Open clams, drain them, but save the juice!
4. Saute onions and garlic in olive oil until almost caramelized
5. Add clams to onion mixture and cook 5 min.
6. Add 1/2 of parsley and ½ of the cilantro (optional) into mixture
7. Add drained clam juice (optional- add a little white wine) and cook 5 minutes or so
8. Let sit for 15 minutes
HOW TO MAKE THE PASTA
1.Fill a large pot with water ¾ full
2. Add salt, olive oil and bay leaf
3.Cook linguine al dente (if it says 9 min, cook 7)
4. Drain pasta (leave aside 1 cup of pasta water in case you need it for the sauce)
5. When you drain pasta add ½ a can of chopped or crushed anchovies into pasta with the anchovy oil ( I cut my anchovies with kitchen scissors)
6. Add remaining parsley and cilantro to pasta
FINISH IT UP
9. Let onion garlic clam mixture cool a little before adding to pasta. (This will prevent it from overcooking the noodles)
10. Add mixture to pasta. Stir adding garlic salt, pepper, a jar of capers with juice.
9. Add 1-2 tbsp of additional olive oil and/or pasta water to make dish juicier (optional)
10. Let pasta sit for at least 15 minutes to marry all the flavors before enjoying a delicious slurpy tasty pasta
HAWAII VERSION OF AIOLIA
Aiolia (linguini in clam sauce) has been made on the east and west coasts and in different parts of the world. My father was an avid traveler and enjoyed making this dish for others upon request or just to feed a large group of people, mainly family.
I remember our trip to Hawaii in the 1990s to visit brother Joe. Off we go to the grocery store to buy the ingredients for aiolia and alas there is no parsley to be had. Captain Joe bought cilantro as a last minute substitute not knowing how it would turn out.
It was delicious! The cilantro gave it an extra twang of taste that complimented the clam and anchovy ingredients perfectly.
Since that time Lapolla Aiolia was made predominantly with parsley and cilantro. It’s totally optional and may even be offensive to some hard core Italian cooks. Give it a try! We love it and we think you will too.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS: MAY NOT BE FOR EVERYBODY
Caution. This dish is not for everyone. Some people do not like it at first bite.
When my parents were first married, my father raved about this meal to my mother, so much so, he must have gotten her expectations up. When my father’s mother came to visit them he continued to boast about how delicious it was. However when it was served, my mother, unimpressed, scrunched her nose up at it and ate very little.
Rumor has it that my father woke up in the middle of the night because he heard a noise in the kitchen. When he walked in the kitchen he found my mother with her head in the refrigerator gobbling up the aiolia.
My parents are divorced now but to this day linguine in clam sauce is my mom’s favorite meal.
